Tuesday, September 5, 2017

Paris 2017, Day 6b Mt St Michel

[first attempt at a draft:  I just can't believe that I've been to France five times in the last seven years and I've never made it to Mt St Michel until this trip!  What an amazing day we had (as I slug down three Advil with a gulp of vin rouge -- it has certainly been a three Advil day :)  Must sleep, I'll work on this tomorrow].

My next attempt:

After circumnavigating the ramparts surrounding San Malo, we boarded our very comfortable Mercedes van and made the 50 minute trip to Mt St Michel.  Is this the most amazing place you've ever seen?  Well, let me answer that for you:  yes it is!  Here is a bit of history:

The site is thought to date back to 708, when Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, had a sanctuary built on Mont-Tombe in honor of the Archangel.  The mount soon became a major focus of pilgrimage.  In the 10th century, the Benedictines settled in the abbey, while a village grew up below its walls.  By the 14th century it extended as far as the foot of the rock.

An impregnable stronghold during the Hundred Years War, Mont Saint Michel is also an example of military architecture.  Its ramparts and fortifications resisted all the English assaults and as a result the Mount became a symbol of national identity.  (read here: holy church meets military stronghold!)

Following the dissolution of the religious community during the Revolution and until 1863 the abbey was used as a prison.  Classified as a historic monument in 1874, it underwent major restoration work which continues today.  Just think about its history, the stories within these walls.  Yesterday, the first level was crowded with visitors gawking and shopping.  The middle level is dedicated to hotels (seriously), a sweet chapel, small cemetery and stairs everywhere and views that just do not stop.  As we made our way up, always up, the senses changed to that of worship and a desire to meditate (and the crowds thinned dramatically).  At "the top" the ticket that we had carried was necessary for entrance to the abbey and the outside deck on which stood a life sized game of some sort.

[side note: on our way down, just before arriving at the gate where you purchase your ticket to gain entrance to the abbey, we encountered a young couple carrying an infant.  She implored me to tell her the top was worth 10 euros a piece!  Well, that all depends on what you hope to experience (I thought).  I said, enthusiastically, that "Yes, it is worth it and more!"  I hope she thought so when she got there.]

According to the brochure: "The abbey is a unique building: its plan is unlike that of any other monastery.  Constrained by the pyramidal shape of the mount, its medieval builders wrapped the buildings around the granite rock."  I'll say!

By the time the mount was in our rear view mirror we had completed 11,000 steps and were a long way from our hotel, when Michael, our guide said, "Our next stop will be Dinan."  Our next stop?  Yikes!

Now is this a postcard worthy picture?  You bet!  Taken with my iPhone.  Feeling pretty smug :)


When you are on a private tour you get to take the back roads to your destination.  Michael was wonderful at knowing where all the great "early" shots should be taken.  I loved getting this shot with the traditional lambs in the foreground.


This holy place was also a perfect defense spot.  The English never were able to penetrate the grounds.


About two thirds the way up the mount was this lovely chapel.  We stopped to spend some time reflecting on what we were experiencing, then Sharon headed for a side alcove to light a candle for Terry.  And then the bells began which drew me outside.  See my FB page for a video of the area, flowers and cemetery with the bells tolling.



One of many windows with history that seems to demand attention.  "Look at me!  Admire my architecture!  Let me share my story!" They all seem to say, this one in particular just a bit louder than some others.


From this vantage point you can see a knight looking defensive with levels above and the Abbey spire.  Atop the 32 meter steeple (about 105 feet tall) is (roughly) a 14 foot statute of the archangel St Michael, patron saint of knights and of all guilds associated with arms and scales.  The statute was originally placed in 1897 -- HOW did they do that? -- it was restored in 1987 and removed by helicopter in 2016 to repair the lightening rod device.


A particularly beautiful and moving stained glass window which are very challenging for me to photograph, I really liked how this shot turned out.  Gosh, I love the camera app in my phone.


 Tide is still out.  Sharon and I have both commented that we would love to be there when the tide is in -- to see the change.  On the other hand I have zero desire to schlep my suitcase around these cobblestones -- they are killer on my back, hips and knees!


Look up high, there are the gargoyles who are there to assist in moving the rain water off the roofs and away from the building.  Also you get a sense of how tall those walls are.


We are on a very wide set of stairs (yes, another blasted set of stairs -- Thanks, Sharon) when we see this guy clowning for his family's camera.  He quickly moved out of the way as I trained my camera on him.  "No!" I said, and motioned him to do it again.  He was very happy to comply.  I told him that I would include him in my blog, not that I think he understood.  Funny guy, he was obviously thirsty.


We're approaching the entrance to the abbey.  Not the abbey itself, you must understand, but the place where they take your ticket and allow you to use yet another very long set of stairs.  Oh boy, more stairs!  Thanks, Sharon!


Finally we make it to the outside to breath before entering a place of worship.  I was fascinated by the life sized board game and wanted to play.  9 squares and 6 playing pieces, each a different thing.
Still pondering this game.


 Getting ready to enter.


The Abbey is everything I expected it to be...and more.  It was originally built in the early decades of the year 1000 and constructed on the top of the rock, eighty meters (262.5 feet) above sea level, on a platform also eighty meters long.  The nave has an elevation on three levels, arches, galleries and tall windows.


Wish I had taken a better shot of the floor, just look at the altar.  Now imagine the Abbott in his robes with a cloth covering the altar and supporting the sacraments.  I imagine a service in Latin (or French or Hebrew for that matter) -- I may not understand the language but I believe I would understand the message.  I was for certain feeling it.


This day, the anniversary of Sharon's birth, this holy place.  My heart is full.

1 comment:

  1. Isn't it wonderful, Shon and Sharon! I was so lucky to share it with my granddaughter, Nya last April. She was blown away, and when we looked down at the dungeon area, she commented, "Definitely haunted>" Love you photos and commentary.

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